Tag Archives: Costa Rica

Jungle Tarpon Lodge, and they DO mean JUNGLE!!!

I had been dreaming of fishing the Caribbean, and catching a big Tarpon since I was a small boy.

At seven years old I got my first subscription to Field & Stream magazine, and had kept it by getting renewals for birthday presents until I was in my early twenties.  Adding such great magazines as Salt Water Fisherman, Fly Fishing, and In Fisherman rounded out my library throughout the years.

A Marlin Grand Slam is on my bucket list, as well as catching a bonefish on a fly, but what I really dreamed of was a big Tarpon. One hundred plus pounds of muscle, rocketing into the sky, shaking its head to try to throw the hook, hearing its gill plates rattling. That was a recurring dream throughout my teens and twenties. Then I moved to Montana. Go figure…….

But now I had my chance. Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is famous for many things, including lots of big Tarpon. I booked my fishing trip online, at the Jungle Tarpon lodge. The reviews were great, lots of pictures of big fish, and the running commentary on fish recently caught nearly made me drool…..  But I still had to get there.

The lodge manager and guide, Angelo,  IMGP2706JunTarLodAngWebwould meet me at Cano Blanco, and take me the rest of the way by boat. The first 3  hours went just as planned, then I got to Siquerres, for the last 32 miles of my drive. Lets just say I was glad I was driving a rental.

After a LONG…. drive, I got to the docks. From here its a boat to the Lodge.  Jungle Tarpon Lodge….. as in deep in the….. About 20 more minutes with the throttle wide open, in a 20 foot center console Boston Whaler got us to the lodge.  Lunch was served, My room was ready, and I settled in. IMGP2697JunTarLodWebNot much else to do but fish. The ad was right. It is truly the JUNGLE Tarpon lodge. No tv, no wi-fi, no radio, Nada. Zip. Zilch. So, we went fishing!

And the fishing was GREAT!

More next time……..

 

The Road Less Traveled…..

After Baldi, I was ready for the next leg of my journey.

I’d be fishing the Caribbean, viewing some monkeys, toucans, crocodiles, and whatever else came my way.

I booked a 4 day stay at the Jungle Tarpon Lodge online. They would have picked me up in San Jose, but I wanted more time to see the country.

At Baldi, I was pretty close to halfway across the country between the Pacific and Caribbean, so I figured about 4 hours to get the rest of the way. Having already experienced the roads, I padded my travel time a little. Good thing!

The last 32 miles on road 806, were a dirt road. And it really isn’t the road less traveled, as I passed banana plantations for miles and miles, which send their product out on semi trucks. It was a well traveled road; it just looked like it was only maintained once a year. It took me over two hours to make the last stretch of this drive.

I got pretty good at dodging potholes myself, or my ride wouldn’t have gotten me back to San Jose for my flight home.

Have I mentioned the dust? No? Dust.IMG_2496

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The type of thick choking dust that slows you down to 5 miles an hour when you pass another car going the other way. The type of dust you don’t realize was making it into your car until you take a look at yourself in the rear view mirror and realize you look like you have been on a camel caravan in the Sahara desert. Yeah, that kind of dust….

I passed several villages on the way, and got smiles and waves from the people in all of the, just like I had throughout the country. Really friendly people, the Tico’s. Or maybe they were just laughing at the crazy gringo and pointing at what was happening to my new rental car. Who knows? I prefer to believe that they were the happy friendly folks I had seen throughout the country my entire trip.

Cano Blanco

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of the road was what looked like a fuel  farm. Gas  tanks, pumps,  parking, and a long wooden dock that sat right on one of the many canals, rivers, and streams that all lead to the sea.

I parked  and was thankful that Angelo, the lodge manager and guide, lived on Tico time. He knew it would take me a lot longer than I planned, because he grew up in one of the villages I passed on the road. He was waiting for me, with a cup of rich Costa Rican coffee in his hand when I pulled up, so we loaded up my gear in the boat, locked my rental car, and down the river we went.

Next up, Tarpon!!!

 

Baldi… Talk about relaxing!!!!

Next stop? Baldi Hot Springs Hotel and Spa.

 

Baldi's front entrance
Baldi’s front entrance

After a day spent walking through the jungle, and sliding on miles of cable, its only natural to want a little relaxation, right?

Baldi's spa
The Spa at Baldi

The truth is, I wasn’t sore, no aching muscles, no blisters, no sore feet, no problems at all. But, I had heard about this wonderful place called Baldi, right close to the Arenal volcano, that had natural hot springs, magnificent food, and luxurious appointments throughout. I wasn’t sure when I would be through there, but I knew I wanted to go, so I didn’t buy any tickets or make any reservations. It didn’t matter, When I showed up the desk clerk was helpful, the entire staff was incredibly friendly, and everything was far more lavish than I had ever imagined.

The springs get their heat and minerals from the Arenal volcano, which is a sight to see by itself. The higher you get in the resort, ( I’m talking elevation here folks….), the warmer the pools get.  Pools, as in plural, as in twenty-five of them. Incredible…

Each one has its own charm, and most have their own sort of water feature.

One of the hot springs waterfalls
One of the hot springs waterfalls

Waterfalls, a steam cave, (I could have stayed there all night), giant natural rock obelisks that were just….. right. The country on the whole is a giant nature conservatory, and Baldi might be the perfect poster child for it. Everything is built around what was there first.

Baldi's water slide
Baldi’s water slides

Its also a perfect place for a family trip. There are kids pools, water slides, a complete kids area, and security is very good so you don’t have to worry about staying and watching your children. There are also trails to hike, water toboggans, and you can book just about anything from Baldi.

For the “legal” travelers, there is also three wet bars, (yes, order while in the pool), two dry bars, and all the amenities you’d expect in a 5 star resort.

If you are traveling through Costa Rica, and need a “me” day, or want to spend an entire vacation there, Baldi is a place you should consider. You can buy a day pass, or stay in the hotel, and if you stay there, more pools are available.

All in all, I recommend this place highly for anybody that wants a place to “wind down” after a long day, or a long life. I know I felt like a wet noodle after my time there……

p.s. They aren’t really big on allowing cameras in, probably because not very many people like their picture taken in their swimsuits. All the photos here are stock photos they let me use…….

Next, Caribbean tarpon….

Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah

The next step on my seat-of-the-pants tour of Costa Rica was Nicoya.

slideshow

Beautiful jungle, teeming with all manner of wildlife, including myself and a group of medical students from Minnesota, on some sort of exchange program. Don’t ask me, I have no idea how they ended up at the same place I did, but they were ready to have some fun….

I had booked this trip online, with no experience or advance information, and hoped that I had found the best zip-line operation I could. I wasn’t disappointed! There are 25 zip-lines, traveling nearly 2 miles in the air, and eleven of the cables went over waterfalls.

The zip line tour was an all in one operation. Adventure Park Hotel Vista Golfo, includes the hotel,  restaurant, and zip line tour all run by the same folks. I arrived about 5 pm, and my room was waiting for me, the restaurant was open, and the sodas and beer cold. It was actually the first time I’ve seen a glass Coca-Cola bottle in a very long time.The menu in the restaurant was varied, with everything from barbecued steak to typical Costa Rican fare. I decided to try the arroz com camarones, rice and shrimp, to see if it was as good here as back in San Jose. It was…..P1020479 (2)

 

Everything was run right to the second, from dinner, to breakfast, to loading the bus to get to the  zip lines, to our return time. I shouldn’t have been surprised, as the kind and efficient folks running this establishment are Germans. The whole place ran like a fine Black Forest Cuckoo clock. And the cuckoo’s? That was us, the collection of folks wanting to slide around the forest on cables, with our gloved hand being our only brake. Here’s a sample….

That was about a quarter mile…. fun, Huh???

All in all, it was a great time. Fun, safe, good food,  and great people. And, yes, there were lizards in the shower…….

Next stop, Baldi Hot Springs, near Mount Arenal, the local volcano.

 

The quieter side of Tamarindo……

Follow the road through Tamarindo, and you’ll find the small beachside community at Playa Langosta.

Playa Langosta, in the Winter…..

It’s another exotic location with excellent surfing conditions, and even better amenities. The sprawling sandy beach at Playa Langosta is much quieter than its neighbor, and is one of the best places in this area to just kick back and relax. There are many great short and long term rentals in this area, and if you bring your family and are looking for an all-inclusive resort and spa, the Barcelo Langosta Beach is a fantastic place to stay. Playa Langosta is usually less crowded than Tamarindo and its right next to Marino Las Baulas National Park

Marino Las Baulas National Park

Leatherback Turtle coming out of ocean
One of the areas Endangered Leatherback turtles coming ashore to nest.

In an effort to save the leatherback turtles that nest along the shores of Playa Grande, Marino Las Baulas National Park was created in 1990. With mangrove wetlands along the coast, beautiful forests and incredible white-sand beaches, Marino Las Baulas is home to a wide collection of flora and fauna.

Strangely, the original purpose of the Marino Las Baulas is to protect a species that doesn’t even live here. Every year, leatherback turtles, the largest turtle in the world, find their way home to the beaches in this area to lay their eggs from October to May. Some of these turtles can weigh as much as 2,000 pounds, but due to their long life span, and late maturity, they are an endangered species. During the laying season  the beaches are closed from dusk till dawn, but you can book a tour guide that can take you to the beaches to see them.  Bird watching is also very popular there, as there are over 150 species of birds here.

Next time? Zip lines in Nicoya….

Tamarindo Dreamin’

The day is warm, the sky blue, water green, and the iguanas are all over the road. Must be Tamarindo!

Beach1

I got to Tamarindo to find that I need to go on a ten mile detour to get to Playa Grande where the PGSC is. (Playa Grande Surf Club) After a few trips back and forth, I finally found the right beach. First thing on my checklist for the next trip? GPS….

After the surf, I headed to my hotel in Tamarindo.

Hotel Flores, off the main drag, Tamarindo

The Hotel Flores. Great little operation, good air-conditioning, clean, roomy, and the only hotel I stayed in that didn’t have any lizards. It’s off the main drag, so you don’t have to listen to the nightlife in downtown Tamarindo. It goes on most of the night.

Long story short, Tamarindo is a fun town, lots to do, and a surfers paradise. Lots of shopping in Tamarindo,  shop till you drop type shopping. If you like nightlife, its a GREAT town. Prices were about what I expected, it is a tourist town, and there’s always haggling to be done. And, if you go in the beginning of June, like I did, kind of off-season, everything was discounted, or buy 2 get one free.

Fun? Absolutely! Family place? Maybe not……

Having said that, I wouldn’t really call it a place for a “Family” vacation. Keep heading down the road to Tamarindo proper. Here there were too many “local entrepreneurs” trying to sell you what you might not want to get caught with. But if you are an adult or couple looking for a great time while in Costa Rica, try Playa Tamarindo, it may be just what you’re looking for.

Next? The rest of Tamarindo….

They call this Driving(?) in Costa Rica

The long  and winding road…..

It just seems to get longer and longer with the driving around San Jose.  I’ve seen traffic, LOTS of traffic. California Interstates at rush hour traffic. Gridlock, not moving for an hour traffic. I don’t like it, but it was at least familiar. But the traffic in San Jose? Insanity. Pure, unadulterated insanity.

It’s not just the thousands of cars, buses, and other four wheeled vehicles of all shapes, sizes and vintages, the real insanity is the 2 wheeled transportation. Motorcycles, (I’m being generous with that description), mopeds, bicycles, and anything else that will move, are the real crazies….

In the middle of a tropical downpour, on the Pan American highway, I saw a 125 cc dirt bike, with 3 people, 4 suitcases, and at least a dozen garbage bags filled with who knows what, piled and bungee corded on all over the place. Then, as if that wasn’t enough, the whole contraption had a huge sheet of clear plastic covering everything, just barely off the pavement. Did I mention that it was passing cars and trucks, and weaving in and out of traffic? Too much for my poor brain…

Generally, the traffic in San Jose was the worst, and it really didn’t die down much at any time of the day. The highways, once away from San Jose, weren’t too bad, (except for the 2 wheelers), other than the passing habits of anybody that didn’t want to wait for a passing lane. I got used to it, even began to participate, after spending a few hours driving with these maniacs. I followed the semi’s, and at first, I didn’t mind following the trucks and passing when they passed. That  was on the road to Tamarindo. Not too many hills, not too many curves. After leaving Tamarindo, however, the road to Nicoya was a little more twisty, That was when I first followed a semi around a blind curve going over a hill, passing another semi all the way. I decided that unless the truck I followed  hit another semi, that was loaded heavier than he was, I could get back in my lane in time to miss most of the fireworks! What a way to travel……

Having said all this, I have to say that even with all the looneys, unsafe vehicles, and unsafe driving, I never saw an accident. Not even the remains of one on the side of the road. Oh, did I mention I put over 1600 miles on my rental car? And I never even saw an accident. No matter how bad it got, they were used to it, they adapted, and everybody survived. Incredible……..

Next time, lets go to Tamarindo…..

Eating Costa Rican….Food for the soul…

After wandering around, unpacking, checking my wifi, and settling in, it was time to test the local fare.

Having never been to Costa Rica before, I wanted to try the most authentic meal I could find. I went to the restaurant, Las Planchas Restaurant & Grill, which is part of the hotel, and was met by a cheerful, friendly girl who spoke English better than I speak Spanish…..The restaurant was exactly like the rest of the Hotel, spacious, airy, open windows, with beautiful flowers and plants outside. At 5:15 I was the only person there, so I took a seat by the window and browsed the menu.

There are many different dishes, from barbecue and grilled pork, shrimp, beef, and fish, to the more traditional fare that I was itching to taste. On the menu the section was listed as Comida Tipica.  Typical fare.  I could smell the spices and the smell of slow grilled meats coming from the kitchen , like delicious rivers oozing out across the breeze. I asked the waitress, Maria, what the most typical Costa Rican food on the menu is. The thing most likely to be eaten in any given home. She pointed to the Arroz con Pollo. Chicken with rice. But this isn’t like anything I’ve had back in the US. The rice was cooked perfectly, then panfried with the chicken. Spices, tomatoes, peppers, onions, corn, peas, and a couple of things I couldn’t identify were all stirred up together, with a LOT of chicken. The french fries were freshly hand cut, and fried perfectly, crunchy on the outside, firm on the inside. This was a full meal, I assure you. No touristy dainty “try our food” small plates at this restaurant. Two could share this plate. It was on an oversized plate, and I couldn’t finish it. For those of you who don’t know me, I’m 6 feet 2 inches and 230 pounds. I don’t find a lot of meals I can’t finish, but after eating for 30 minutes, here I did. Everything was wonderful and I took my time. The setting, the smells, the food, the staff, everything combined to make this a memorable experience, and I will tell you one thing for sure. When I come back to Costa Rica, I’ll be staying here again!

There’s No Place Like….Home?

So, after changing some money, (yes I made that mistake too…) and getting my rental car, a full size SUV, I headed out to find my hotel. I stayed the first night at the Hotel Aeropuerto. The place is amazing! If you are looking to find some REAL Costa Rica, not just a Holiday inn with a banana tree in the yard, I highly recommend the Airport Hotel. It’s not the easiest place to find, I’ll admit it. I drove past it twice before I realized where it was. It is in Alajuelo, and while I don’t know the crime statistics here, I would say that this is not the best neighborhood. Having said that though, when I pulled in, there was a gate blocking the driveway. The guard at the gate checked my reservation, and handed me a small plastic parking pass. It’s not to park, its for getting out. Apparently at one time there was a car stolen from here. That won’t happen again. I was told not to leave the pass in the car, to take it with me. My car would not be allowed to leave without it. A novel approach!!!

Once I got into the hotel, I was pleasantly amazed. Being the tropics, it rains. A lot. instead of trying to keep all the water out, the hotel lives with it, as its friendly neighbor. The floors are tile. The walls in the lobby are open, with a lofted ceiling. The people are VERY friendly. Everything was a wonderful surprise after my initial shock at the gate. The rooms are large, airy, air-conditioned, and comfortable. Right outside my window are a huge mango tree, and several banana or plantain tree.  To tell you the truth, I don’t know the  difference, but it was nice to have such a beautiful reminder that I’m in the tropics!

Next time, the restaurant at the Hotel Aeropuerto….

Over the edge, Over again…

Well, after what seemed like, and actually was, one hell of a long trip, I’m finally here. I wouldn’t advise anybody doing the trip from the Pacific Northwest to Costa Rica the same way I did unless you can sleep anywhere. Over 19 hours, more then half in airports, waiting for the connection. I’f I’d driven to Portland, I could have been here in 9. File that under things to remember……

Not completely used to the idea of Tico time. I expected to get my rental car at the airport, or at least be taken right to it. Once again, I have to remember that I’m not in the land of the Superstore. It took nearly half an hour to get to the office, and then found out that the insurance policy I bought won’t cover liability, only damage to the car itself. Since Costa Rica law requires liability insurance, and if you get in a wreck, they can, and sometimes do, refrain from letting you leave the country until it is completely taken care of, you really should pay whatever your insurance company wants to extend your coverage. I wish I did. My $205 dollar rental that seemed such a great deal turned into a $467 dollar deal. Not such a great deal anymore. But….if that is the worst thing that happens on this trip, I’m Golden!!!

By the way, don’t exchange your gringo dollars for colones at the airport money changers shops. The exchange rate when I arrived was 559 colones per dollar, and the airport shops are paying no more than 480 colones per dollar. Quite a racket!

Next time I’ll tell you about a great out of the way hotel and restaurant close to the airport…….

Here we go!

Well, the supplies are bought, catalogued, folded, spindled and mutilated, bags packed, lists made and printed in triplicate, passport copied, and its time to hit the road! The trip is to Costa Rica, but I’m traveling on my own. No tours, no guides, traveling without a net, so to speak. I looked at what Costa Rica has to offer, picked my favorite 4 or 5 things, and I’m hitting the road! Should be a real Kick in the Pants!

The plan includes fishing, diving, surfing, zip-lining, and a visit to Baldi Hot Springs; the biggest collection of hot spring pools I have ever heard of.

Baldi is twenty pools of varying size and temperature located on the side of a volcano, with water slides, hotel, and all manner of interesting and provocative food and activities.

Fishing will be on the Caribbean coast for Tarpon, with offshore trips in the morning, and river trips in the afternoons. A bonus will be the possibility of seeing a crocodile or two, possibly eating a fish I hook.

Surfing? Tamarindo. Beach break with soft sand, friendly people, and great food. No reef to get torn to shreds on, just a bit of sandblasting if I fall too often. Oh well, thats surfing! I haven’t been on a board for nearly forty years, so I’m taking a lesson the first thing when I get there.

The zip-lining will be in the form of a Canopy tour. According to their website, I will be taking 25 zip lines, with 11 of them going over waterfalls. I’ll also be doing the “Superman” zip line, where I lay out like I’m flying. I hope my videos come out!

Diving will be on an as available basis. Maybe Pacific coast, maybe Caribbean coast. I hope to get to the worlds second longest barrier reef, off the Caribbean coast of Central America, but if it should come up when I’m over at the Pacific? I’ll go there!

Should be a really interesting trip.

I decided to go it alone, because I want to get off the beaten path. I’m renting a car, driving myself, and hoping to find the adventure that I’m looking for, after too many trips with planned side trips, staged luau’s, and non-original performers. I’ll see the real country, eat the food wherever I find something that looks good, and meet the people that live there.

Stay tuned folks…it should be one hell of a ride!!!

Oso…..